How to Weave in Ends (Crochet and Knitting Method That Never Comes Undone)

1. 1

   Step 1: Gather Your Needle, Scissors, and Finished Piece

   Watch this step · 0:39

   Enlarge

   Grab your finished crochet or knit piece with the loose tail still attached, your tapestry needle, and a pair of small scissors. A blunt-tip tapestry needle is what you want here because it slides between yarn strands instead of splitting them.

   Thread the tail onto the needle and take a look at where your stitches sit. You can see the little V shapes on the front and the bumps on the back. Those are the paths you will follow to lock the end in place.

   Tip:

   If your tail is shorter than about four inches, leave a longer tail next time. A short tail will not give you enough length to do all four passes.

   Mark step done

   Used in this steptapestry needle setsmall embroidery scissors

   Back to all steps

2. 2

   Step 2: Run the Needle Through the Tunnel of Stitches

   Watch this step · 0:52

   Enlarge

   Slide the needle into the body of a stitch so it travels through what Nicki calls the tunnel. You are going under one stitch and out a few stitches over, staying inside the fabric instead of stabbing across the top.

   If your piece has color changes, stay inside the matching color so nothing peeks through on the front. Pull the yarn through, but stop before it tightens. Tugging too hard will pucker the fabric and leave a dent on the right side.

   Tip:

   Aim for three to four stitches per pass. Any longer and the yarn ends up sitting on the surface instead of inside the fabric.

   Mark step done

   Used in this steptapestry needle set

   Back to all steps

3. 3

   Step 3: Reverse Direction and Weave Back

   Watch this step · 1:32

   Enlarge

   Now reverse direction. Shift the needle over by one stitch and weave back the way you came, running parallel to your first pass.

   This is the move that locks the end in. Yarn that travels only one way can wiggle loose, but a yarn that doubles back has to fight friction in two directions. Take it slow and keep your tension light. You should still see the V of each stitch on the front of the work.

   Tip:

   Flip the work over after each pass and check the front. If you see the tail color bleeding through, ease off the tension and shift over another stitch.

   Mark step done

   Used in this steptapestry needle set

   Back to all steps
4. 4

   Step 4: Drop a Row and Zigzag Again

   Watch this step · 1:50

   Enlarge

   Drop down one row and run the needle through a third path, then shift over and zigzag back one more time. You will end up with a small back-and-forth ladder hidden inside the fabric.

   Four short passes is the sweet spot for worsted-weight yarn in crochet or knitting. Any less and a stubborn tail can creep back out in the wash. Any more and you will feel a stiff lump on the wrong side of the piece.

   Tip:

   Heavier yarns like chunky or super-bulky only need two or three passes. Lace and fingering weight need five or six because the tail has less friction to grab.

   Mark step done

   Used in this stepworsted weight yarn

   Back to all steps

5. 5

   Step 5: Trim Long, Then Stretch the Fabric

   Watch this step · 2:13

   Enlarge

   Give the tail one last gentle pull so a tiny bit extra sticks out past the fabric, then snip it close with sharp scissors. Do not cut flush yet.

   Now stretch the piece in both directions like you are blocking it. That short tag end you left will pull itself back inside the stitches and disappear. If any yarn still pokes through after stretching, tug the fabric again. The tail should retract on its own.

   Tip:

   Sharp embroidery scissors give you a cleaner cut than fabric shears. A clean cut tucks in flush, while a frayed cut wants to fluff back out.

   Mark step done

   Used in this stepsmall embroidery scissors

   Back to all steps

6. 6

   Step 6: Split the Plies for a Stronger Finish

   Watch this step · 2:34

   Enlarge

   For a stronger finish on plied yarn, untwist the tail and separate the plies before you weave. Nicki uses four-ply, so she splits it into two pairs. Thread each half onto the needle one at a time and weave them through different tunnels in different directions.

   Splitting the tail spreads the bulk and makes it nearly impossible for the end to unravel as a single strand. Trim and stretch the same way you did before so each piece hides inside the fabric.

   Tip:

   Use this method on heirloom pieces, anything that will be machine-washed often, and on slippery yarns like cotton or bamboo that fight back against a single weave.

   Mark step done

   Used in this steptapestry needle setyarn bowl

   Back to all steps

Keep going

How to Crochet Amigurumi: 5 Beginner Skills That Make Any Plushie

→

Tools we recommend

• Clover

  Clover Amour Crochet Hook Set (10 sizes)

  Soft, easy-grip handles that warm to the touch and a full size range in one case. The set most crocheters upgrade to and never look back.

• Lion Brand

  Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton Yarn

  Mercerized cotton with crisp stitch definition and a subtle sheen. Machine washable, and the go-to for amigurumi, bags, and dishcloths.

• Clover

  Clover Locking Stitch Markers (20-pack)

  Lock onto stitches so they never slip while you mark rounds, increases, and repeats. A dollar-store fix that actually holds.

Tags